Two years ago today I watched a documentary, a collection of stories about life, the choices we all make, and the paths we ultimately decide to follow. “I’m Fine, Thanks” is about the moment people realize the life they’re living is not the life that’s true to their heart… and, as a result, what they decide to do about it! I had that moment in January 2013 on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii, just after catching my first surf and seeing my first sea turtle – he was also riding a wave, naturally. I decided to travel around the world for a year to discover new places, see all the wonders of the world and meet its amazing people from all walks of life, like my incredible surf instructor “Sunset Suzy”. Suzy is an incredibly strong and charismatic woman who was the first and only woman in history to be a lifeguard on the powerful, collossal wave-ridden North Shore in Hawaii. Never mind the fact that she has taught a handful of celebs how to surf including Owen Wilson, James Franco, Helen Hunt, Eddie Vetter and Val Kilmer. Yes, she taught batman how to surf. Oh and she’s buddies with Jack. Jack Johnson.
If you want to learn how to surf from Hawaii’s best surf instructor, book a week with Sunset Suzy Stewart:
And if you’re really itching to change things up, watch this…
http://youtu.be/jNDZgvne_5k
I was thinking of you this past Thursday, the day of your birth. I was hoping you were having the time of you our life on your amazing adventure around the world. I miss lots and I hope you are well. Xxoo.